Jaipur

Azad and I dropped off Benson after lunch and headed toward Jaipur. Azad learned earlier that I would be traveling to Vizag for a wedding so took it upon himself to help me fine a gift at a jewelry emporium, since apparently the region is known for its semi-precious stones. Plying along, knowing that at least one stop for shopping is usual with tours, I went in and asked the price of a pretty sapphire pendant. $12,500. Um, no. So. I looked at a few more pieces and kindly said no thank you and took my leave, satisfied that I didn’t make my driver look bad. 

Then he took me to another emporium and I just about lost my shit. I think me saying, “I just don’t want to” in an tone that was equal parts exhaustion, frustration and despair freaked him out. He took me straight to dinner and then, while driving me to the hotel, apologized profusely and said he misunderstood and to please blame his bad English. I’m not sure if he misunderstood or not, but I can say the was no more confusion. 

In the morning he arrived with my guide for the day (who I’ll call Slick because I 1) can’t remember his name and 2) he was gussied up with two gold earrings, light eyes and cologne) who laid out his plan, following each item with “Of course we don’t have to” and finished with “If at any time you’re bit happy please let me know and we will change plans.” 

We drove just outside Jaipur to visit the Amber Fort, built largely out of the terra cotta that gives Jaipur it’s nickname of “Pink City.” Many visitors choose to ride an elephant up the hill to the entrance but I elected to be taken directly to the entrance and I’m so glad that I did. The route by car weaves you through the old Amber City and Slick asked to stop the car while he explained to me a bit of the history. We walked through the city and he sowed me the most amazing well, where residents would not only get fresh water, but also “take the pleasure.” I’m only moderately ashamed to say that my mind went directly into the gutter – there were a number of rather private nooks and crannies, after all. As Slick continued expanining, I realized that by “pleasure” he was not referring anything nefarious, it was relaxing and frolicking with friends and/or family. Oops.     

I was also able to see a ritual that is performed on first day of mourning, where the males of the family are shaved bald during a ceremony; it was a sad and respectful tribute. 

I thanked Slick and let him know how much I appreciated him showing me this side of Jaipur, and to his credit he took it to heart the tone of the tours then seemed to tailor my experience more toward the personal and the people rather than simple architecture. 

  After the Amber Fort we returned to Jaipur where this next stop was to visit the palace and then the observatory – here Slick suggested that maybe I’d like a walking tour of the city. In the end we decided to skip the palace, visit the conservatory and finish with the walking tour before lunch. 

The observatory was impressive to say the least! Large sundials dispayww the current time with twenty seconds, and additional ones were made for each of the astrological signs.

The walking tour was also fantastic. Slick grew up just outside Jaipur, but the pride he had for his region was sweet.

 

Late afternoon Azad and I got back on the highway to Delhi, where the Blue Sapphire room was waiting for my arrival.